Hot Patterns Trilogy Dress Part 2 – the muslin

Here we go, proof of the pudding! I admit i get a kick out of doing muslins. I think it’s because I get to write all over them in ink!

I sewed my muslin of the Trilogy in an inexpensive double gauze. I’ve been planning to venture into the world of double gauze for a while – so many sewing sites are ‘wild’ about it for summer garments.

Before I move on to the pattern, here’s a look at the fabric post-laundry, before and after a thorough pressing: And it’s rather nice – soft and easy to sew(I used a walking foot). In white, it is also sheer. I can understand, though, why it is a popular fabric for swaddling blankets.

On to the pattern and muslin. In short, the muslin has been binned. I’ll just touch on a few points:

  • I sewed size 12 based on the HP size chart and my full hip measurement.
  • My worst moment: when I realized that the pleat in the front shoulder line is very, very deep. Two and 3/8″ deep in fact. I was expecting a soft dart-like pleat. Just to be sure that my fabric had not ‘grown’, I verified the shoulder seam against the pattern tissue – perfect match. To me the pleats resemble a tabard.
  • The armhole is very deep, wide, and fly-away, The shoulder seam is 10″ long and not the softly curved shoulder line in the pattern envelope art.

BTW, I drafted my pattern with 1/2″ seam allowances. The pattern comes with 3/8″ SAs, which make me uncomfortable with most woven fabrics. And I curved my back hemlines to match the front, just a personal preference. The pic below is before hemming..

I’m not really fussing, but I am disappointed by how how poorly the actual pattern aligned with my expectation. Lesson learned…

Whew – I’m going to sew only my favorite patterns for the rest of the year! This and my un-snuggly robe are quite enough experimentation for now 🙂

Ciao! Coco

9 thoughts on “Hot Patterns Trilogy Dress Part 2 – the muslin

  1. I always wanted to be excited about my makes from Hot Patterns. I was never happy with the outcome. I am petite and their patterns were not petite friendly. I was drawn to the drawings and time and time again I was very disappointed. I now try to stay with patterns that I know will give me a nice outcome.


  2. O, no! I’m so sorry this didn’t work out. The sketch was indeed inviting! Thank you so much for sharing the trials you went through! I will admit, I’ve rarely said: “I get a kick out of doing muslins.” But you make me smile really bit with, “I think it’s because I get to write all over them in ink!” I needed some encouragement and your post boosted my spirits right up! xo, Nancy


  3. Coco, your posts are so helpful for a semi-beginner! I really enjoy reading them. I have found, when looking for patterns, that I’m not comfortable with the ones that only have a drawing of the garment. I want photos! Real people who made that item in different fabrics, so that I can see how it really looks. I think I’ll keep that habit going. 🙂 Thanks!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. What a shame Coco! I had many issues with a Hot Patterns pattern – far too oversized – would fit a giant and did not match the image on the pattern envelope. I have kept the muslin because I like it and need to size it down even though I made the smallest size. I was so disappointed I couldn’t bear to make all the adjustments – but – one day……..! I have had considerable success with the Tessuti Eva dress – and it’s very hack-able. The bodice is a very flattering fit and the lantern skirt is lovely. also very easy to just make a gathered rectangle for the skirt, if preferred. I have made three, one in linen (white) and one in linen/cotton (black) and one in cotton/viscose lawn (floral print) – all are lovely! Here’s to more success in the future!

    Liked by 2 people

    1. I hate it didn’t work out but why in the world did they design such a big honkin’ pleat like that? I have to say though, that gauze fabric before the press is gorgeous to me! Would that the same beautiful texture come back if you washed it again? Because it’s shear if you doubled it would it be real bulky? I always learn something from you in each post. I look forward to reading them!


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