This dress has so much history! I need a sea cruise just to recover from the experience.
First, I bought the pattern, Burda 7200, because View A, the long version, just looks so svelte and sexy!
And second, I was fully aware that the long version should be done in a knit – and I have been avoiding sewing knit fabric for a looonng time. This pattern seemed good incentive to revitalize my knit sewing skills.
This is not exactly the svelte and sexy look I was after! but I do love the dress. It is done in a cotton jersey from Girl Charlee. What a cute print! Nautical and tropical and so fresh. And it feels wonderful.
Of course I had to choose stripes for my first foray back into knits! Managed them pretty well, only the one side drifts down a bit 🙂
I sewed a size 14, it worked very well. While there is a lot of volume in the gathered parts of the dress, the neckline, armhole, back, and bust really do rely on using a correct size.
Are you as wary as I was about sewing jersey knit? Here is what I learned along the way, maybe it will help you too!
Seams: I started with a 5/8″ seam, which I hand-basted together. I sewed the seam using a narrow zigzag stitch (length 2.0, width 2.0) with reduced tension on the upper thread. Then I pressed the seam, trimmed it, and serged the edges together to finish.
Neck and armhole detail: There are lots of gathers, curves and topstitching in these areas – I knew I needed to use a straight stitch. Used length of 2.5 and again, released tension on the upper thread.
The ‘collar’ has fusible interfacing. This sent me off on a google search…what to use for a lightweight knit? I get so frustrated when I read things like ‘a fusible weft interfacing will work well….’. So here is what I used, and it worked great!
Hem: Fear not! I always look for a simple approach 🙂 So I zigzagged the hem, letting the entire stitch be on the fabric. And pressed it flat to sink the stitches.
Then I applied 1/2″ Steam-a-Seam to the the hem edge, on top of the zigzag. I turned the hem up and topstitched using a length of 3.0 and released upper thread tension. This worked great!
Here you can see the zigzag and topstitching on the inside….
And the outside of the same area…
And the product itself:
So color me happy 🙂
Hasta luego! Coco